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Sips with a sommelier: Riesling

Jessi Blanarik


CENTRE COUNTY — There are over 10,000 different types of wine grapes around the world. Some grapes have widespread notoriety and can be found in many countries, while others are native grape varieties that can only be found in the specific country they come from.

Some of the most common grapes found around the world are known as the noble grapes. These grapes include four white grape varieties — pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc, riesling and chardonnay — and four red grape varieties — pinot noir, syrah, merlot and cabernet sauvignon.

Riesling hails from Germany. Over 40% of riesling produced in the world is grown in German vineyards, according to Wines of Germany. However, it is also commonly grown is Alsace, France, a cool-climate region known for producing dry rieslings with pronounced acidity, floral aromas and mineral-driven flavors, as well as, Austria, Washington, the Finger Lakes, Canada, New Zealand, Australia and South Africa.

The grape variety is quite a chameleon, capable of producing a wide range of wine styles depending on the winemaking approach and growing conditions. It can range from bone-dry to intensely sweet, with high acidity providing balance in every style.

Germany’s wine regions are considered cool climate areas, causing the grapes to mature at a slower rate than other grape varieties. A typical riesling is characterized by its bright acidity, with flavors of citrus, green apple and stone fruits, alongside floral and mineral notes. It ranges from dry and crisp to sweet and honeyed, making it a versatile and food-friendly wine. With age, riesling also often develops distinctive petrol-like aromas, adding complexity and depth to its character.

HOW TO READ THE WINE LABEL

While a riesling from Washington state will just be labeled as “riesling,” deciphering a German riesling label can be a bit more complicated.

Germany’s labeling system is one of the most detailed and structured in the world. The label terms reflect both the ripeness of grapes at harvest and the quality of the wine. At its core is the Prädikatswein classification. This categorizes wines based on grape ripeness, which influences the style and sweetness level.

At the most basic level, German wines are divided into four main quality categories:

  • Deutscher Wein — Simple table wines made from grapes grown anywhere in Germany
  • Landwein — A step up from Deutscher Wein, comes from one of 26 designated regions and must meet slightly stricter requirements
  • Qualitätswein — Must originate from one of Germany’s 13 recognized wine regions and adhere to specific quality standards
  • Prädikatswein — The highest designation, with subcategories reflecting the ripeness of the grapes at harvest

Qualitätswein classified wines will also be labeled in a way that indicates their sweetness as:

  • Trocken— A dry wine with less than 9 g/l of residual sugar
  • Halbtrocken— A slightly sweet or off-dry wine with up to 12 g/l of residual sugar
  • Feinherb — This is an unofficial term to describe wines between Halbtrocken and Trocken
  • Liebliche — A sweet wine with up to 45 g/l of residual sugar
  • Süß/Süss — A very sweet wine with more than 45 g/l of residual sugar

Prädikatswein wines tend to lean more toward a sweet palate. The labeling system is divided into six tiers:

  • Kabinett — Light, dry or off-dry wines made from fully ripe grapes, often with low alcohol content
  • Spätlese — Meaning “late harvest” due to grapes being harvested later than usual, resulting in riper, more concentrated fruits
  • Auslese — Made from very ripe, hand-selected grapes, these wines often lean toward sweetness and richness
  • Beerenauslese— Produced from individually picked, overripe berries, often affected by noble rot (a fungus that infects ripe grapes, drying them out and concentrating sugars, acids and flavors), resulting in intensely sweet wines
  • Trockenbeerenauslese— These rare wines are made from raisin-like, shriveled grapes with noble rot, offering an extremely sweet and concentrated experience.
  • Eiswein — Crafted from naturally frozen grapes, these wines are known for their bright acidity and concentrated sweetness.

Additionally, outside the Prädikatswein system, labels like Grosses Gewächsdenote high-quality dry wines from top vineyard sites, overseen by the Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP).

CARL REH RIESLING PIESPORTER MICHELSERG SPATLESE

On the back label of a bottle of Carl Reh Riesling Piesporter Michelserg Spatlese, which retails for $13 at the Fine Wine & Good Spirits at 230 W. Hamilton Ave., are the key label terms, Prädikatswein and Spätlese.

It has rich, concentrated fruit flavors like apple, pineapple and peach, with some ginger spice. It leans on the sweeter side, serving as a great example of the range of profiles a riesling can produce.

Pair this wine with pork or poultry, or try it with goat cheese which pairs well due to its tangy, citrusy flavor profile that highlights the wine’s bright acidity and tropical notes.

TRIMBACH RIESLING

A unique sip that hails from outside of Germany can be found in a bottle of the 2020 Trimbach Riesling, which retails for $27 at the Fine Wine & Good Spirits at 230 W. Hamilton Ave. This wine comes from the Alsace wine region in France, which is known for its cool climate, steep vineyards and mineral-rich soils that create wines — typically white wines — that are highly aromatic and acidic.

“Riesling is the most emblematic of Alsace grape varieties,” Trimbach’s website noted. “Its delicate bouquet, the beautiful balance between its dry character, its distinguished fruitiness and its natural liveliness contribute to its exceptional richness.”

This wine is made in a dryer style and has notes of white flowers, lemon zest, peach and a light petroleum note due to the age. It pairs well with grilled fish, white meat, salads or goat cheese.

KUNG FU GIRL

Riesling is known for pairing well with a range of Asian dishes due to its high acidity, which helps cut through rich, oily and spicy flavors. And a bottle of Kung Fu Girl Riesling, which hails from Washington and retails for $15 at the Fine Wine & Good Spirits at 230 W. Hamilton Ave., is no exception.

This riesling is made in a dry style with notes of white peach, mandarin orange and apricot with a soft minerality to it that makes it equally vibrant and juicy to drink. Though it is made in a dry style the naturally sweet palate from the juicy peach notes balances heat and enhances the overall taste of dishes like pad thai, Vietnamese pho and Indian butter chicken. The aromatic notes complement similarly aromatic ingredients like ginger, lemongrass and chili, making it versatile with a wide range of Asian flavors.

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