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Sips with a sommelier: Chardonnay

Jodie Wilson/Creative Commons

Jessi Blanarik


CENTRE COUNTY — Chardonnay is California’s most-planted white grape variety. According to the Wine Institute, across the state, a total of 88,063 acres of chardonnay grapes are planted.
And while some wine drinkers refer to themselves as “ABC” wine drinkers, short for “anything but chardonnay,” the grape variety has notoriety around the world for its ability to create complex, ageable wines.
Chardonnay’s ability to grow almost anywhere comes down to its adaptability. It thrives in a wide range of climates, from the cool vineyards of Chablis in France to the warm valleys of California. Unlike some grape varieties that require very specific conditions, chardonnay can produce quality wines in diverse terroirs, with its flavor profile shifting depending on the environment and winemaking techniques.
California chardonnay, in particular, has developed a distinct style that wine drinkers find polarizing. The classic “California style” is often associated with rich, full-bodied wines featuring pronounced oak influence and buttery texture. The butteriness is due to malolactic fermentation, a secondary fermentation process that converts tart malic acid into softer lactic acid, following the primary fermentation.
This style became especially popular in the ’80s and ’90s, but it also led to some backlash, giving rise to the “ABC” movement. While some drinkers love the bold, creamy style, others prefer more restrained, mineral-driven chardonnays, such as those found in Burgundy, a French wine region.

DOMAINE WILLIAM FEVRE CHABLIS 2022
For those who do not enjoy a buttery chardonnay, a crisp Chablis is a great alternative. Though it is made from chardonnay — but labeled by the French region and not the grape — it has a completely different palate than a Californian white.
Chablis, located in Burgundy, France, has a cool climate and unique limestone-rich soil, which produce wines with high acidity, minerality and citrus-driven flavors. Unlike many California chardonnays, most Chablis wines are unoaked, allowing the natural freshness and terroir-driven characteristics to be the focus. This results in a lean, steely wine with notes of green apple, lemon and wet stone, offering a stark contrast to the rich, buttery and oak-influenced styles often found in California.
A bottle of the 2022 Domaine William Fevre Chablis, which currently retails for $42 at the Fine Wine & Good Spirits at 1682 N. Atherton St., is an excellent example of the style of wine this unique terroir produces. With bright acidity, crisp green apple and citrus flavors and a distinctive flinty minerality, it showcases Chablis’ signature freshness and elegance.
This wine pairs well with light seafood dishes or goat cheese, enhancing its vibrant, saline-driven character.

SEQUOIA GROVE CHARDONNAY NAPA VALLEY 2022
For those who do enjoy the creamy texture of a buttery California chardonnay, a bottle of the 2022 Sequoia Grove Chardonnay Napa Valley, which currently retails for $35 at the Fine Wine & Good Spirits at 1682 N. Atherton St., beautifully demonstrates the unique traits of the region.
“Our 2022 Napa Valley chardonnay opens with bright aromas of lemon curd, grapefruit, orange blossom, apple and wet stone with hints of jasmine and vanilla,” the winery’s website noted. “This chardonnay is medium-bodied and balanced with flavors of honeysuckle, white peach, lemon zest and hints of nutmeg and cardamom.”
The influence of Napa Valley’s warm days and cool nights, combined with careful oak aging, gives this wine its signature richness and depth. The creamy mouthfeel and layered flavors make it an excellent pairing for roasted chicken, buttery lobster or a creamy pasta dish.

DAVID FINLAYSON CHARDONNAY STELLENBOSCH 2023
A bottle of the 2023 David Finlayson chardonnay, which currently retails for $15 at the Fine Wine & Good Spirits at 1682 N. Atherton St., hails from the Western Cape of South Africa. Stellenbosch’s diverse soils and maritime influences contribute to this chardonnay’s balance of bright acidity and complex texture, making it a versatile and food-friendly wine.
Though Stellenbosch has a warm climate similar to California, its chardonnay style is distinctly different due to the region’s unique terroir and winemaking approach. South African chardonnays often emphasize minerality and restrained oak influence rather than the bold, buttery characteristics typical of many Californian chardonnays.
“This is the 16th vintage of our chardonnay. The wine is made from five different vineyards. As with previous vintages, the wine shows an elegant minerality with lime-citrus, sourdough and cinnamon flavors. The tight minerality keeps a wonderful acid grip on the palate showing good aging potential. A floral note of wild, white flowers such as frangipani and almond blossom is obvious on the front of the nose and follows through the palate,” the winery’s website noted.
The crisp citrus and mineral-driven profile of this wine pairs with grilled seafood, fresh salads or a creamy goat cheese.

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