Smokey Axe Grille: ‘Drink beer. Eat good.’

Sometimes Justin Leiter just likes to change things up a bit. After ten years as owner and head chef, he handed off Pleasant Gap’s Red Horse Tavern earlier this year to new owners and headed downstream along Logan Branch to Axemann Brewery, where he recently opened The Smokey Axe Grille so people can “Drink beer. Eat good.”

Now he operates in the trendy atmosphere of the revitalized metal factory at 2042 Axemann Road in Bellefonte, serving up a new menu headlined by smoked pork, brisket, tuna, and salmon.

“I came up with food that I thought would pair well with the atmosphere of the brewery and items we can get out quick due to the volume of the brewery,” Leiter says. “It’s different than the Red Horse. It’s more of a fun and casual menu that you can enjoy with your craft beer. Whether it’s something to share with your friends like the loaded tots or a salad or sandwich to enjoy yourself. We tried to put food out there that isn’t common around here.”

The Smokey Axe earns its name by smoking all the meats and seafood in-house. “The rubs we use and the natural smoking process we do are what give all these ingredients their flavor. Everything is smoked low and slow.”

The result? Delicious smoked tuna burgers with Southwest spices, smoked salmon Cobb salads, house-smoked pulled-pork sandwiches topped with coleslaw, and more. Grilled Portobello mushrooms can turn any sandwich vegetarian.

The Dutton burger features bacon, brisket and onion jam, pepper Jack cheese, and adobe mayo, and was inspired by fictional Montana rancher John Dutton. “My wife and I are big fans of the TV show Yellowstone,” Leiter says. “I thought one night while watching the show that, if they were to have a burger they would be eating on this show, what would it be? That’s how the Dutton burger was born.”

Smokey Axe’s starters menu is brimming with tempting treats. The loaded tots are exactly that—loaded—with crispy dry-rubbed pork belly, Cooper cheese, caramelized onion aioli, and green onion. Diners are also raving about the rosemary Parmesan truffle fries and the Mexican street corn dip served with tortilla chips. (Hint: If you can’t finish all the dip, be sure to take the rest home; it’s just as good the next day, hot or cold.)

Children are welcome at the Smokey Axe and can choose right-sized meals with hamburger, hot dog, grilled cheese, or chicken fingers, each served with fries—plain ol’ kid-style fries, not the super-yummy-for-adults rosemary Parmesan truffle fries.

The Smokey Axe replaced The Blonde Bistro, which moved out of Axemann in May in preparation for opening its own freestanding eatery and brewery in Zion (still in the works).

Leiter is a longtime fixture in Centre County restaurants, having started his career at the old Gamble Mill before heading to Carnegie House, spending some time in San Diego, and then opening the Red Horse. In addition to Smokey Axe, he operates Belle City Bites, a food truck offering “chef-crafted bites on wheels.” Belle City fans will be happy to know that the fan-favorite side of fried Brussels sprouts with sweet chili glaze has carried over to the Smokey Axe menu—not bad for a dish that was born out of necessity.

“They were, honestly, some ingredients I had to use up and something I thought of, and they turned out to be a hit,” Leiter recalls.

Currently, Belle City Bites isn’t making public stops but is still doing the occasional private event. Leiter and his team are concentrating on the Smokey Axe Grille, “putting out great food in a timely manner” and working with Axemann Brewery on fun events and collaborations, such as watch parties during Penn State football games.

Leiter doesn’t have a lot of time to relax and enjoy his own menu, but he says, “At the end of the night, my go-to is what’s quick to make and take home to eat! Usually that entails a salad or a burger. With every menu I’ve prepared, I’ve always tried to put items on the menu that I would enjoy.”

The Smokey Axe Grille is open Wednesday through Saturday from 4 to 9 p.m.

Tracey Dooms is editor of Town&Gown.