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Where It All Began

Vincent Corso

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A Centre County stretch of the Mid State Trail sparked a path across Pennsylvania

When you first step foot on the Mid State Trail, it is hard to believe that it cuts 327 miles across the center of Pennsylvania. At least it felt that way to me when I recently took a short hike on the trail with my pup, Peg.

That day, this historic and grand trail felt much smaller than that. Just a narrow path that disappears between the trees, with orange blazes marking the way forward. The forest was quiet, save for the occasional rustle of leaves or the sound of my own footsteps (and Peggy’s bear bell).

But if you follow that trail southbound for long enough, it will take you all the way to the Maryland border. Head northbound, and eventually you will end up in New York. Both are a long hike from Centre County.

For our little adventure, Peggy and I went north from the Little Flat Fire Tower in Rothrock State Forest, one of the many places to hop on the trail in Centre County.

You can drive up to the Little Flat Fire Tower from Boalsburg, turning left onto Bear Meadows Road from Route 322. Head past the Tussey Mountain Fun Centre into Rothrock State Forest, then right onto Laurel Run Road and continue to the top of the ridge. Turn left onto Little Flat Fire Tower Road until it ends. Just beware that it is a very bumpy Jeep trail, so make sure you go slow and have decent clearance.

The Little Flat Fire Tower alone is worth the trip, but just know that the tower is off-limits to climbers due to vandalism. The view from the top is blocked by trees anyway. (Don’t ask how I know that.)

Now, Peggy and I were not attempting to thru-hike the whole Mid State Trail. That would take much longer than an afternoon. At 327 miles, the Mid State Trail is the longest hiking trail entirely within Pennsylvania. Much of it runs through state forests, state parks, and game lands.

Like the much longer and more well-known Appalachian Trail which runs for about 230 miles through Pennsylvania, it is one of many long-distance hiking trails in the United States.

It is rugged and wild and beautiful, and I know many sections of the trail in the State College area well. It flows up and down, and along the ridgelines of this Ridge and Valley province of the state.

For this hike, our goal was to hike about 2.5 miles out to the majestic Indian Wells Vista and then head back out the way we came, taking in the sights and sounds of the Mid State Trail along the way.

And walking this particular section, it is hard not to think about the trail’s much larger story.

Because this is where that story began.

According to the Centre County Historical Society, in the 1960s, Penn State physics professor Tom Thwaites led members of the Penn State Outing Club in blazing what would eventually become the Mid State Trail. The first section of the trail ran through eastern and southern Centre County and was initially known as the “Southern Allegheny Trail.” Over time, more sections were added, and it became fittingly known as the Mid State Trail.

About a half mile from the Little Flat Fire Tower, a monument dedicated to Thwaites now marks the spot where the trail was born.

That’s a remarkable thing to consider while you’re walking on it. The trail beneath your feet isn’t simply another route through Rothrock State Forest. It is the beginning of an idea that eventually stretched across the entire state.

Not far from the monument, you will find a mailbox alongside the trail, but the post office doesn’t deliver out here. Instead, inside is a trail register and a few other trinkets. Folks passing through register in the booklet, leaving a trace of their visit and messages for other hikers. It is always fun to flip through.

As Peggy and I made our way out to the overlook, we followed the path along the ridgeline. The route is mostly flat, but don’t think you are going to make any fast time, because if there is one thing that the Mid State Trail is known for around here, it is the rocks.

Yes, there are big rocks and little rocks, some stuck in the ground and some loose, but they are all there to trip you up if you are not careful. Best to watch your step.

Along the ridgetop, there are many viewpoints showcasing Bear Meadows Natural Area down below and the neighboring ridgelines along the way.

But none are as cool as the Indian Wells Vista. Surrounded by a large boulder field that is difficult to navigate, the vista offers breathtaking views in an awesome atmosphere. We met a fellow hiker there who was taking in the views and enjoying a snack, all in agreement that it was a special place.

Of course, the Mid State Trail keeps going, but Peggy and I turned back the way we came. The section itself isn’t particularly long, but it captures much of what makes the trail distinctive in Centre County.

There are stretches of rocky ridgeline. There are trees as far as you can see. Every so often, the landscape opens up enough to remind you that you’re hiking along the spine of the mountains rather than simply wandering through the woods.

You don’t have to hike the whole 327 miles across the state to experience the Mid State Trail (but you can if you want to). Just find a map and a compass, pick a section, and follow the orange blazes. And remember, it all started right here in Centre County. T&G

Vincent Corso loves exploring the outdoors in Central Pennsylvania and beyond.

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